That’s another fine eatery in Ilfracombe

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By Ilfracombe People | Thursday, April 28, 2011, 11:00

AS IF Ilfracombe’s brimming repertoire of mouth-watering restaurants wasn’t already enough to prompt a shiver of excitement in food fanciers, yet another fine example has popped up to cement the town’s increasingly “foodie” reputation.

Chimes Restaurant, located at the former Café Jardin site on St James Place, has undergone a seasonal facelift over the past few weeks, just in time for the summer trade.

The interior white-washed walls and tile floors complement the exterior decking and wooden surfaces which reek of a restaurant with its heart firmly rooted in the Mediterranean.

The outdoor heaters ensure enough warmth to dine al fresco on a fine summer’s evening and the increased seating space inside means that even if it does rain you can still enjoy your meal.

And with head chef John Lawnikowicz at the helm, I was hopeful that the food at Chimes would also “walk the walk”.

For those of you who don’t know, John was chef at Damien Hirst’s 11 The Quay and as I glanced at the menu I was glad to see he has emulated some of the finest dishes from his former employers.

To start, my girlfriend and I shared a couple of plates of nibbles including juicy, fat olives, creamy homemade hoummos, pitta bread and tortillas, all washed down with a refreshing pint of San Miguel.

The choice of main courses left us scratching our heads, each sounding more tempting than the last.

We opted to order two dishes we both fancied and switch half way through – how very middle-aged.

I went for the Dulce chorizo cooked in red wine and served with a fennel and rocket salad while the missus chose smoked duck breast on a bed of seasoned rocket with vine roasted tomatoes and balsamic dressing.

Both were sumptuous and cooked to perfection. The chorizo’s strong, rich flavour was complemented by the light salad and the delicate texture and subtle flavours of the smoked duck played a symphony on my taste buds.

The cooked vine tomatoes were a treat in themselves, each bursting with an explosion of moisture and balsamic tang.

Our insatiable appetites not yet defeated, we again decided to share two puddings. The classic strawberries and cream dish was elegant and light and contrasted perfectly the stodgy, sweet apple crumble pie (something I have never encountered before but will return for in the near future).

As we waited for our coffees we watched the Ilfracombe life go by from the veranda. Children skated lazily by, couples basked in the unusually good weather and our bellies gave a rumble of approval.

Chimes is a must for food lovers and casual drinkers alike – another fine eatery for Ilfracombe to add to its growing list.

A meal for two at Chimes Restaurant on St James Place in Ilfracombe cost £37.70. Bookings: 01271 866233.

      

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